Dispatch from the Cali Coast: Laguna, Arcata & San Francisco

Being a New Yorker with a penchant for European adventures, I never found myself going west when the opportunity for a vacation arose. Last year, when my little sister, Annagrace, fell in love with a boy who lived in Northern California and relocated from Brooklyn to the Redwood Forests, I knew all of that was about to change. Suddenly I found myself visiting California several times a year, despite splitting most of my time between the East Coast and Milan. The idea of not being able to walk everywhere, even in its main cities, made the state as a whole something I was sure could never win over a New Yorker like me. But after a three-week trip earlier this year, its beauty began to thaw even my cold, city-hardened heart. We began our journey with New Year’s Eve in Laguna, followed by an early January trip to Northern California, starting in Arcata and driving down to San Francisco. The weather (typically 70-75° F and sunny) ended up being the perfect alternative to the New York chill and Milan fog. 

Laguna

My sister had fallen right into a friend group so quintessentially Californian that one of its members had starred on MTV’s Laguna Beach. Trey was a close friend of her now-boyfriend, Sam, and we were invited to his house for New Year’s Eve. Trey had created an entire flow chart for the weekend, with activities corresponding to our potential moods, and built-in moments for relaxation throughout. I took a cab from LAX to Laguna and checked into Hotel Joaquin, whose warm entry made me feel as though I was arriving at the house of a very chic friend, instead of the typical cold hotel lobby. I was greeted with a welcome cocktail and a private bar (accessible only to hotel guests) that flowed seamlessly into a cozy living room, where an old movie was being projected onto its main wall. A Christmas tree in the corner was covered in tinsel, and a heated pool waited just outside the terrace. Much to the joy of my jetlag, coffee was delivered early each morning in a thermos left outside my room (with a side of oat milk too!) The thing that immediately struck me about Laguna was the unique character of each home and the eccentric vegetation on each lot. 

Laguna was established as an artist’s community over a hundred years ago, and that creativity is still reflected today. Each morning, I’d take my thermos and go on long walks along Picnic Cove and Heisler Park to the main beach, exploring different neighborhoods and taking pictures of all my favorite trees and homes. A favorite spot for breakfast was Penguin Cafe, a small diner that Trey and his friends used to go to after school (and sometimes during). After fueling up on French toast, we hiked Laguna Ridge Trail and had sunset drinks on the beach at Hotel Laguna and fish tacos at the Taco Stand. To start the New Year right, my sister and I took an early morning drive to 1,000 Steps Beach, which was ambitious after our drinks the night before. The beauty of the popular surf spot was well worth the 200 steep and winding stairs it takes to get there. Afterwards, we drove up to the aptly named Top of the World, which offers truly breathtaking views of the city. Before checking out of Hotel Joaquin, I popped into two cute shops just across the street, The Ritual Refill, featuring excellent refillable products for body and home, as well as Mercado Laguna, a great local market whose selection of canned tomatoes and pastas made me feel right at home. 

Arcata

We caught a flight from John Wayne airport and after a quick stopover in SF, were on our way to Arcata, the small town my sister had fallen in love with. Her boyfriend, Sam, had grown up there and now runs Hilliard Lamps, the hand-crafted lighting company started by his parents, Janene and Noel, 50 years ago. In their studio, a small team of local artisans hand-pour lighting fixtures in their bronze foundry and glass studio, which was fascinating to see. Humboldt County, which includes Arcata, is said to have the highest number of artists per capita in the state, and the town emanates that creative energy. 

The first morning, we took a drive to Moonstone Beach, just 12 miles up the 101 from Arcata. We explored several local delicacies afterwards, such as the slug-shaped bagel at Los Bagels, which only looks phallic if you have eyes. It is worth noting that the banana slug is somewhat of a local celebrity in this part of the country. Perusing the shops that line Arcata plaza was an excellent way to spend the afternoon, and nearby women-led Nottland Studio is a standout for its selectively curated space with local made craftsman goods. Stop by Chilango’s truck across the street for a leisurely Mexican lunch before or after. From Arcata, you can enter directly into the redwood forests (which locals refer to as Arcata Community Forest). We started each day with a hike through the entrance just off of 14th Street, or opted for a run in the beautiful Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary. We drove to nearby Eureka to visit the Redwood Sky Walk at the Sequoia Park Zoo, which I would highly recommend, especially if you have kids. I enjoyed great coffee at Familia coffee roasters and had delicious pastries at the cutest Finnish Country Sauna, which also features a cash-only cafe. Sunset yoga at Tosha Yoga with Suzanne was magical, but my favorite part of my stay was a trip we took to the seaside town of Trinidad, just 15 minutes north of Arcata with the dogs one morning. The fishermen were out laying their nets as we hiked along the cliff’s edge. I couldn’t believe how stunning and peaceful it was—we were practically the only ones there. Afterwards, we had brunch at the picturesque Seascape diner, as we watched the birds and fishermen along the Trinidad harbor. To finish my visit, we spent a weekend at their river house, which sits along the picturesque Trinity River, (fed by the Trinity Alps). 

San Francisco

After our trip up north, we made the five-hour drive from Arcata to San Francisco in the afternoon and kicked off our SF adventure with a great dinner at Radhaus, a Bavarian beer hall at Fort Mason with gorgeous views of the bay. Afterwards, we hopped over to The Interval at Long Now for a nightcap. In the morning, we went for coffee along the Marina, where several coffee trucks were parked. Afterwards, we took a leisurely morning stroll through the epic archways of the Palace of Fine Arts, and in the afternoon we drove over to Haight-Ashbury so I could check out some vintage stores, and I spent forever in Decades of Fashion and the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of vintage stores along Haight Street. For dinner, we had fantastic sandwiches and plantains at Puerto Rican Parada 22 and took our first Waymo, which felt thrilling, like you were going against everything your mother ever told you about safety. 

The next morning, we went to the de Young museum (great views of the city from the roof) and had sandwiches and salads from Palm City as we sat on Ocean Beach. I made the classic New Yorker-in-California mistake of thinking I could walk anywhere, and made my way from Ocean Beach to the Legion of Honor as I wanted to see the show on Mary Cassatt. The walk was beautiful, but unfortunately incredibly uphill. Over an hour later, I arrived at the museum just in time to see the exhibitions before they closed. It ended up being perfect timing, as I walked back along the Coastal trail, hearing the owls in the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset over the water, stopping at Ocean Beach Cafe at the end, a great cafe with an excellent non-alcoholic bar. My friends picked me up and we headed to the Japan Center malls. We popped into Hotel Kabuk, whose lobby would be a great spot for a drink, and wandered among the shops (highly recommend Forest Books for some used treasures). We ate at On the Bridge, a Japanese restaurant specializing in Yoshoku, a fusion of Western, Asian, and European cuisine. We ended the night as one always should, at a Karaoke bar belting our lungs out while knocking back lychee martinis. A perfect ending to my California dream.