Being a New Yorker with a penchant for European adventures, I never found myself going west when the opportunity for a vacation arose. Last year, when my little sister, Annagrace, fell in love with a boy who lived in Northern California and relocated from Brooklyn to the Redwood Forests, I knew all of that was about to change. Suddenly I found myself visiting California several times a year, despite splitting most of my time between the East Coast and Milan. The idea of not being able to walk everywhere, even in its main cities, made the state as a whole something I was sure could never win over a New Yorker like me. But after a three-week trip earlier this year, its beauty began to thaw even my cold, city-hardened heart. We began our journey with New Year’s Eve in Laguna, followed by an early January trip to Northern California, starting in Arcata and driving down to San Francisco. The weather (typically 70-75° F and sunny) ended up being the perfect alternative to the New York chill and Milan fog. 

Laguna

My sister had fallen right into a friend group so quintessentially Californian that one of its members had starred on MTV’s Laguna Beach. Trey was a close friend of her now-boyfriend, Sam, and we were invited to his house for New Year’s Eve. Trey had created an entire flow chart for the weekend, with activities corresponding to our potential moods, and built-in moments for relaxation throughout. I took a cab from LAX to Laguna and checked into Hotel Joaquin, whose warm entry made me feel as though I was arriving at the house of a very chic friend, instead of the typical cold hotel lobby. I was greeted with a welcome cocktail and a private bar (accessible only to hotel guests) that flowed seamlessly into a cozy living room, where an old movie was being projected onto its main wall. A Christmas tree in the corner was covered in tinsel, and a heated pool waited just outside the terrace. Much to the joy of my jetlag, coffee was delivered early each morning in a thermos left outside my room (with a side of oat milk too!) The thing that immediately struck me about Laguna was the unique character of each home and the eccentric vegetation on each lot. 

Laguna was established as an artist’s community over a hundred years ago, and that creativity is still reflected today. Each morning, I’d take my thermos and go on long walks along Picnic Cove and Heisler Park to the main beach, exploring different neighborhoods and taking pictures of all my favorite trees and homes. A favorite spot for breakfast was Penguin Cafe, a small diner that Trey and his friends used to go to after school (and sometimes during). After fueling up on French toast, we hiked Laguna Ridge Trail and had sunset drinks on the beach at Hotel Laguna and fish tacos at the Taco Stand. To start the New Year right, my sister and I took an early morning drive to 1,000 Steps Beach, which was ambitious after our drinks the night before. The beauty of the popular surf spot was well worth the 200 steep and winding stairs it takes to get there. Afterwards, we drove up to the aptly named Top of the World, which offers truly breathtaking views of the city. Before checking out of Hotel Joaquin, I popped into two cute shops just across the street, The Ritual Refill, featuring excellent refillable products for body and home, as well as Mercado Laguna, a great local market whose selection of canned tomatoes and pastas made me feel right at home. 

Arcata

We caught a flight from John Wayne airport and after a quick stopover in SF, were on our way to Arcata, the small town my sister had fallen in love with. Her boyfriend, Sam, had grown up there and now runs Hilliard Lamps, the hand-crafted lighting company started by his parents, Janene and Noel, 50 years ago. In their studio, a small team of local artisans hand-pour lighting fixtures in their bronze foundry and glass studio, which was fascinating to see. Humboldt County, which includes Arcata, is said to have the highest number of artists per capita in the state, and the town emanates that creative energy. 

The first morning, we took a drive to Moonstone Beach, just 12 miles up the 101 from Arcata. We explored several local delicacies afterwards, such as the slug-shaped bagel at Los Bagels, which only looks phallic if you have eyes. It is worth noting that the banana slug is somewhat of a local celebrity in this part of the country. Perusing the shops that line Arcata plaza was an excellent way to spend the afternoon, and nearby women-led Nottland Studio is a standout for its selectively curated space with local made craftsman goods. Stop by Chilango’s truck across the street for a leisurely Mexican lunch before or after. From Arcata, you can enter directly into the redwood forests (which locals refer to as Arcata Community Forest). We started each day with a hike through the entrance just off of 14th Street, or opted for a run in the beautiful Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary. We drove to nearby Eureka to visit the Redwood Sky Walk at the Sequoia Park Zoo, which I would highly recommend, especially if you have kids. I enjoyed great coffee at Familia coffee roasters and had delicious pastries at the cutest Finnish Country Sauna, which also features a cash-only cafe. Sunset yoga at Tosha Yoga with Suzanne was magical, but my favorite part of my stay was a trip we took to the seaside town of Trinidad, just 15 minutes north of Arcata with the dogs one morning. The fishermen were out laying their nets as we hiked along the cliff’s edge. I couldn’t believe how stunning and peaceful it was—we were practically the only ones there. Afterwards, we had brunch at the picturesque Seascape diner, as we watched the birds and fishermen along the Trinidad harbor. To finish my visit, we spent a weekend at their river house, which sits along the picturesque Trinity River, (fed by the Trinity Alps). 

San Francisco

After our trip up north, we made the five-hour drive from Arcata to San Francisco in the afternoon and kicked off our SF adventure with a great dinner at Radhaus, a Bavarian beer hall at Fort Mason with gorgeous views of the bay. Afterwards, we hopped over to The Interval at Long Now for a nightcap. In the morning, we went for coffee along the Marina, where several coffee trucks were parked. Afterwards, we took a leisurely morning stroll through the epic archways of the Palace of Fine Arts, and in the afternoon we drove over to Haight-Ashbury so I could check out some vintage stores, and I spent forever in Decades of Fashion and the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of vintage stores along Haight Street. For dinner, we had fantastic sandwiches and plantains at Puerto Rican Parada 22 and took our first Waymo, which felt thrilling, like you were going against everything your mother ever told you about safety. 

The next morning, we went to the de Young museum (great views of the city from the roof) and had sandwiches and salads from Palm City as we sat on Ocean Beach. I made the classic New Yorker-in-California mistake of thinking I could walk anywhere, and made my way from Ocean Beach to the Legion of Honor as I wanted to see the show on Mary Cassatt. The walk was beautiful, but unfortunately incredibly uphill. Over an hour later, I arrived at the museum just in time to see the exhibitions before they closed. It ended up being perfect timing, as I walked back along the Coastal trail, hearing the owls in the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset over the water, stopping at Ocean Beach Cafe at the end, a great cafe with an excellent non-alcoholic bar. My friends picked me up and we headed to the Japan Center malls. We popped into Hotel Kabuk, whose lobby would be a great spot for a drink, and wandered among the shops (highly recommend Forest Books for some used treasures). We ate at On the Bridge, a Japanese restaurant specializing in Yoshoku, a fusion of Western, Asian, and European cuisine. We ended the night as one always should, at a Karaoke bar belting our lungs out while knocking back lychee martinis. A perfect ending to my California dream. 

The post Dispatch from the Cali Coast: Laguna, Arcata & San Francisco appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Mesh slippers and thin strappy sandals may be the thing right now, but they’re not going to take you very far on foot. For travel, we prefer sandals that are truly supportive—and can put in their 10,000 steps, from beach to dinner. While Birks are of course the gold standard, we found several other elevated options to prove that support really can be beautiful!

1. A chic cross-cross strap option, this pair by Liberté have a cushioned sole and elegant gold hardware. We also love the minimalism of their Kyoto sandal, and with a thicker strap, the Aloha sandal is elegant and supportive. 

2. This Birkenstock-inspired pair by Tod’s evolves the classic thong with a statement gold buckle. 

3. We absolutely love these Sézane sandals—a shaped leather insole in deep chocolate, with gold hardware that dresses up to walk you from day to night. And another great Birk reinterpretation by Sézane is more “navigating the cobbled streets of a charming Italian village” and less ‘70s California commune. 

4. We love the handwoven leather straps on these sandals with a thick molded sole and back ankle strap, perfect for pounding the pavement and then heading to dinner!

5. If you’re willing to shell out, this option by The Row is perfectly understated but still hugs your foot. 

6. The Hermes Chypre Sandal pulls off chic-meets-comfortable in a variety of colorways. 

7. With an oversized buckle and a contrast sole, these supportive J.Crew slides are available in suede and black. 

8. A supportive yet delicate sandal can be hard to find, but this suede version by Emme Parsons is the perfect mashup. 

9. These Loewe slides in a beautiful brown suede have a lot going on, including a very chic gold buckle. 

10. We couldn’t not include a Birkenstock in this list, namely this elevated version of their classic Arizona style in a Bordeaux colorway with a hammered gold buckle.  

11. These strappy leather sandals have a great supportive sole and a cute criss-crossing ankle strap. 

12. The OG of orthopedic-chic footwear, Dr. Scholl makes these cork mules—a great riff on their iconic Pescura sandal, but with a suede upper and cork sole instead of the classic wooden one. This slide version in black raffia is super understated and cool—and on sale!

13. An affordable option, this pair has ample arch support and a velcro strap to secure your foot.

14. This pair by A.Emery—in a variety of leathers—is a striking twist on the gladiator, with good support. We also love their slide in cognac leather.

15. Our friend, Onda founder Larissa Thompson, swears by this James Perse pair for plane travel!
16. And while no one would call Tevas chic, we love these norm-core sandals in tan—they’ve got great arch support and don’t call attention to themselves.

The post Comfortable Sandals That Are Actually Chic appeared first on Yolo Journal.

In short… A Utopian coastal community 100 miles north of San Francisco that was founded in 1963 and still hums with the design-centric, nature-first and free spirit of its founders.

The surroundings… The Sea Ranch occupies a narrow, 10-mile swath of Sonoma coastline so rugged and windswept, it’s a marvel that anything, tree or structure, manages to stay rooted. The buildings are so harmoniously folded into the landscape, it’s hard to grasp the scale of it all—1,800 wooden cottages clustered like boulders strewn down the coast—and it’s a testament to the genius of the founders’ design that you never really will. The Lodge, at the south end of the property and just off Highway 1, houses a dining room and bar, fireside lounge, general store, and charming post office used by the Ranch’s 1,300 or so residents. The Lodge’s 17 guest rooms are in a separate wing connected by a wooden walkway; all the buildings overlook a bluff thick with wild coastal grasses and a confetti canon spray of wildflowers—goldfields, purple seaside daisies, California poppies, and pink Johnny tucks, according to the glossary in my room—which spill down to the cliff’s edge, before a vertical drop to the crashing waves. The only structure that breaks the ocean view is a century-old wooden sheep barn, preserved as it was found, dirt floor and all, and whose pitched roof became the architectural template for the property.

The backstory… In 1963, architect-developer Al Boeke stumbled on this stretch of wild Sonoma coast that had once been home to the Pomo tribe—and later sheep farmers, fishermen and loggers—and envisioned a new kind of coastal community: ecological, collaborative, and deeply rooted in place. He brought on landscape architect Laurence Halprin, whose master plan prioritized open space, native vegetation, and architecture that blended into the surroundings. Halprin wrote a short “Diary of an Idea” about the original inspiration for the Ranch (which I picked up at the general store, bewitched by the mythology of the place). In it, he describes camping on the cliff with his family and knowing that “I wanted to build a unique community based on ecological principles of design and immersed in nature.” To make it happen, he and Boeke assembled a team of young Bay Area architects, including Charles Moore and William Turnbull, who channeled the local vernacular of weathered barns into a modernist vocabulary that would define Sea Ranch style. It was Halprin who coined the now-famous ethos to “live lightly on the land,” and with it helped launch the environmental design movement.

One of the cooler design elements on the property is Swiss modernist designer Barbara Stauffacher Solomon’s bold supergraphics, including the now iconic “ram’s head” logo—which is also a double nautilus shell, a mathematical expression of natural harmony. Solomon is also known for having created the assertively clean sans-serif Helvetica font, and her brightly colored typography across the property brings such stylistic intelligence—and ‘70s vibes—to its walls and surfaces.

Today, The Sea Ranch is still maintained cooperatively by the community in “taking part workshops” once a decade, where participants contribute to problem-solving and other discussions. One of my favorite pieces of art spotted on the walls here is a black-and-white photo of a group of hippie-ish homeowners walking towards the sea clutching reams of paper against the wind as they head for what was almost certainly an impassioned discussion about stewardship and sight lines.

The Sea Ranch’s latest chapter began in 2018, when the Lodge underwent a multi-year renovation led by Seattle-based Mithun Architects, in which a glass punch-out was added to the dining room to bring in light, and other changes that honored the original vision. Interiors were overseen by Sausalito designer Charles de Lisle, who populated the dining room with Saarinen chairs and Alvar Alto tables, and created a casual lounge for game nights and group activities. (Barbara Solomon was even lured out of retirement to create some colorful wall graphics.) The restaurant, bar and lounge reopened in 2021, and a refresh of the Lodge Rooms followed in 2023, by SF interior designer Nicole Hollis. This July, The Sea Ranch celebrated its 60^th anniversary.

The vibe… I confess to a longstanding habit—fueled over years of falling for the Sea Ranch aesthetic in the pages of AD and Dwell—of romancing a life here: potted avocado trees and threadbare kilims underfoot, sipping homemade kombucha and painting watercolors by the warm glow of a Noguchi lantern. So I arrived already halfway moved in, and Sea Ranch did not disappoint. Though the founders never intended for it to welcome tourists—the limited number of guest rooms speaks to that—it’s remarkable how quickly you feel pulled into the communal rhythm. At the Lodge, you’ll cross paths with homeowners who drop by for dinner, or to attend one of the many workshops and activities held at the Lodge (from “vino and vinyl” nights to architecture talks), and who are friendly to transient guests.

The rooms… We stayed in Room 5, on the second floor. On entering, you are gobsmacked with the most ridiculous view of the whitecapped Pacific through a large picture window. I spent a lot of time sitting and looking through binoculars (thoughtfully supplied for guests), trying to spot whales on their seasonal migration from Baja. (No luck.) I adored Hollis’ interiors, which are clean-lined and calming, with built-in handcrafted wooden furniture—the bed, window seat, desk and shelving—against a calming palette of blue and terracotta. A very steep and narrow set of stairs—more like an obstacle-course ladder—led up to a loft bed tucked under the sloping roof.

The bathroom had the same natural wooden walls alongside ocean blue tiles, European modernist faucets and radiant heat in the floors, which was very welcome during an unusually cold June week.

A few great extra amenities made the room feel more like a summer cottage than a hotel: a Chemex coffee pot, locally roasted Plank coffee and a carafe of fresh milk in the fridge; a bottle of Sea Lodge rosé (partnered with Rootdown Wine Cellars). I also appreciated the hand-carved walking sticks by Brazos and all the intuitive but subtly placed USB-C ports and reading lights.  

The food & drink… The bar, lounge and dining room are, as mentioned, a community hub, and when we arrived early for our reservation to see if we could sit (we were starving), we were out of luck. But we were happy to have a glass of wine (Chardonnay from nearby Anderson Ranch) at the lively and packed bar with a delicious snack of local cheeses: Pt Reyes Blue, Mt Tam brie, and Beemster gouda with Marcona almonds and membrillo honey.

Everything we ate at the Sea Ranch was fresh and so good, drawing on local Sonoma seasonal bounty: halibut ceviche appetizer with avocado and tomato; and a farm-lettuce salad with watermelon radish and green goddess dressing; followed by garganelli pasta with spring vegetables, arugula pesto, and San Joaquin cheese (sprinkled with chive flowers, which felt like a nod to the wildflower heath out the window).

And the wine list is incredible, with plenty of French and Italian bottles, though of course they lean into small California producers: with several skin contact wines from Sonoma (Jolie-Laide, Scribe), and Sonoma/Mendocino County wines like Flowers, Fort Ross vineyard, and Paul Hobbs.

The wellness… There’s no spa (yet—there’s murmurings of one), but you can book in-room massages. The Ranch also partnered with water healer (and friend of Yolo) Jobi Manson’s Sẽfari, and each room offers a QR code for her “bathe in nature” sound meditation, which pairs ambient music with stereophonic rainstorms and crashing surf—a lovely way to channel the vibes.

The kid-friendly factor… I wouldn’t want to have a young child on the loose around the steep unguarded cliffs, but by middle-school age, I think kids would love the tide-pooling, sand-castling and seal-spotting to do along the rugged ocean coves. And The Sea Ranch also includes kid-friendly programs in their weekly schedule.

Be sure to… Take a walk along the paths that crisscross the property for miles. Or just walk down the staircase— built tall and narrow like a fire tower—down to the wide crescent, driftwood-strewn Black Point Beach, for great beachcombing and Andy Goldsworthy-esque photo ops. Also visit the excellent general store for a goldmine of bring-backs, from ram’s head Sea Ranch mugs to Cali coastal-made products like teas, chutneys and cutting boards.

Parting words… Laurence Halprin said it best in his diary: “If we could achieve that—if the whole could link buildings and nature into an organic whole rather than just a group of pretty houses—then we could feel we had created something worthwhile which did not destroy but rather enhanced the natural beauty we had been given.” At The Sea Ranch, you really feel that whole. Almost enough to start looking at real estate listings.

Date of stay… June 10-11 2025

The post The Sea Ranch Lodge, Sonoma Coast appeared first on Yolo Journal.

As a child, our family excursions were road trips. 

Every year for spring break, we’d set off from our farm in Kentucky to our cousins’ house in Tampa for a week by the beach. In the fall, we would drive to Sloan’s Valley, KY, for an extended weekend of camping, caving, and rock-climbing alongside family friends. We would cook over live fire, tell stories around camp, and spend our days exploring the vast system of caves in the area. In the summer, we stayed put, save for the one year we drove over three long days to the tremendous Boy Scout ranch in Philmont, New Mexico. 

These excursions encouraged exploration, adventure, a love of nature, and a natural curiosity. “If you’re bored, you’re boring,” as my mom would say. 

In this spirit, my wife, Erin and I, along with our 5-year-old son, set out on a road trip of California, from Los Angeles up to tiny Philo, CA – it included a few city days, but mostly time further afield, where we could prioritize cooking, family time, and nature. I wanted to give our son the freedom and excitement of a great road trip across a beautiful part of America.

I think this is a great itinerary that leaves room for your own color (with or without kids) – I would absolutely do it again. 

LOS ANGELES

Touching down in LA, we stayed at the iconic Chateau Marmont. While the Chateau is not a family hotel per se, Andre Balazs’ culture of laid-back, “we will get it done without drama” style of service makes it a low-key great spot for traveling with (well-behaved) kids. It’s fancy, but it doesn’t feel fancy – which is something he does well. They booked us a babysitter with ease so we could see friends and our son could get caught up to the local time without a breakdown at dinner. There are many hotels in LA, but for me, it’s Chateau, always – the food needs work, but the rest of the place is a gem. It should be on the National Register of Historic Places, inside and out, if it isn’t already.

We had dinner with friends at Found Oyster, where we feasted on West Coast oysters and a parade of crudos, each better than the next. We took our first driverless Waymo ride back to the hotel, which took a literal turn for the worse when I realized I’d dispatched the car to the dog grooming business Chateau Marmutt instead. (How they’ve evaded a cease-and-desist escapes me.)

We took our son to the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, designed by Renzo Piano, mainly to see the animatronic shark from Jaws, a movie he has not seen but is somehow obsessed with. We visited the gift shop, which had some of the best merch I’ve encountered in a long while, and a great edit of books on iconic directors. 

Afterward, we strolled through the neighboring campus of LACMA to see Michel Heizer’s ‘Levitated Mass’ and the nearby La Brea Tar Pits – exciting for our son as he is enthralled by dinosaurs and fossils.

A visit to LA isn’t complete (for me, a grocery head) without Erewhon. We stocked up on pantry essentials for the rest of our trip (good salt, nut butter, tinned fish, olive oil) and some California citrus and strawberries. A great grocery is an essential stop for a road trip, when picnics are a priority and we knew we’d be cooking in later.

I had a “meeting” with my business partner, which meant eating off-menu club sandwiches poolside at Hotel Bel-Air, like an aged Hollywood mogul. The public spaces are a bit too sleek for my taste (especially when compared to the Chateau), but the palatial grounds (and the drive through Bel-Air) are worth a visit at least once.

We took a kidless trip to Gallery Castle. I had been eyeing work from L.A.-based painter Max Xeno Karnig I wanted to see in person. Harley, the owner, took us a few blocks over to his restaurant, Stir Crazy, for a cold Trumer Pils before we caught a ride to meet friends at Antico Nuovo. Los Angeles does shopping center restaurants better than any, and stepping inside felt like walking into a candlelit masseria in Southern Italy. 

VENICE/SANTA MONICA

Gjelina Hotel for the kitchenettes and proximity to the beach. 

Venice can feel like a living, breathing “Don’t Do Drugs” ad, and maybe not the first choice with kids in tow for some, but it doesn’t bother us. We walked to breakfast at Gjusta (hectic but the contained courtyard is great for kids; breakfast is a dream with something for everyone) and explored nearby Abbot Kinney, the main commercial thoroughfare in Venice. That evening, we had an early dinner at Gjelina. It’s still a great place, but I think the NYC location is doing better food these days. 

We rented an electric cart from Boardwalk Skate & Surf – a nerdy move, but we knew our son wouldn’t be able to hack the long walk to the Santa Monica Pier without the assist. The Pier is every parents’ nightmare and every child’ s dream. 

After a long, hot afternoon negotiating games and rides, we got cleaned up and walked to dinner at RVR, the new project from certified hunk and ex-Gjelina chef, Travis Lett. Our reservation was right at opening, and I knew as soon as I entered it would be a good evening. John Coltrane’s ‘Ballads’ was playing on vinyl, the room was serene, and the staff was cool and kind. We spent a long time speaking with the chef, Ian Robinson, who moved back from Japan to helm the kitchen. 

We ate breakfast on our last morning while shopping the Saturday Santa Monica Farmer’s Market, picking up loads of fresh fruit and vegetables for the week ahead and munching on fresh peaches and nectarines. It’s not a huge market, but the quality is unbelievable. 

OJAI

We stayed on a sprawling property outside of town belonging to a friend of a friend. Some houses on the property can be rented, but not without a personal introduction – it felt like the ultimate “IYKYK” situation. Our house had a great kitchen that left me wanting to redesign my own, an expansive porch surrounding the house, an adjacent private pool, and thick, beautiful landscaping punctuated in every direction by orange trees. 

When we arrived in Ojai we headed straight for Rainbow Bridge, supplementing our farmer’s market haul with any last-minute needs. We wanted to settle in and cook all of our meals at home, and this was the perfect market for our needs, stocking loads of local organic produce and thoughtfully sourced pantry items.

Ojai is cool in the mornings and evenings and very hot during the day, but it’s a dry heat, so it’s totally comfortable in the shade. We spent our days cooking, painting, reading, going on walks, and swimming. We plucked fresh oranges from the groves that we pressed into juice each morning, and spent the evenings taking walks and eyeing birds, bunnies, and bugs on the grounds. Mid-week, we visited the Ojai Farmer’s Market to restock for our meals at home and buy straw sun hats. We loved it so much we already booked to return for two weeks next summer – I haven’t felt that relaxed and inspired in some time.

During our brief excursions into town, we toured the beautiful new Hotel El Roblar, a project from hotelier and filmmaker Eric Goode, the coolest person alive. Unfortunately, it’s an adults-only hotel, so we couldn’t stay – but we look forward to a return trip sans kid. We only ate one meal outside the house at Rory’s Place, and enjoyed a mid-day ice cream another day at Rory’s Other Place. We shopped for summer reads at Bart’s Books, as well Twice-Sold Tales, the used book shop operated by the Ojai Library – one of our travel covenants is that we don’t buy toys, but our son can buy a book at any bookshop we visit, which feels very Bernard from Squid and the Whale.

One afternoon we ventured into nearby Meiner’s Oak for smoothies at Farmer and the Cook, plus a visit to the art store to re-up on some supplies.

A highlight of the week in Ojai was a sunset visit to Meditation Mount. My wife had always wanted to visit, and arranged for us to walk the grounds and enjoy the fading moments of the day in the peaceful gardens. On the ride home, we listened to Brian Eno as my sons’ eyelids grew heavy in the backseat. I’m not sure I’ve ever felt more contented than that moment.

There’s also a great playground in the middle of town, with a feature new to me – a large, smooth mound covered in astroturf, with flattened cardboard boxes for surfing down. No bones were broken, and my son met several new friends. The park was conveniently located across the street from Ojai Ice Cream. I can put away a lot of ice cream in the summer, and proximity to ice cream is the only real reason I need to have it.

Next summer we will spend more time on Lake Casitas, which we eyed approvingly on the way out, where you can rent boats or kayaks for a day on the water.

CARPENTERIA/SANTA BARBARA

On our way out of Ojai, we stopped in Carpinteria, a town outside of Santa Barbara. It was on my radar because of Little Dom’s Seafood, a restaurant opened by Warner Ebbink, who runs some of my favorite places in Los Angeles. The town had a laid-back surfer energy I liked, and felt very family-friendly. We drove by Carpenteria State Beach, which has great campgrounds where you can camp next to the ocean. I noted it for a future visit, as well as Carpinteria Beach Cottages, which look like a great place for a longer stay.

In Santa Barbara, we stopped in to see Jake & Jones, a boutique where we will be hosting a trunk show for Erin’s clothing brand E.M.Reitz later this year. We grabbed some drinks at The Eddy (a small market and shop from the same owners) and headed on to Ojai.

LOS ALAMOS/CARMEL/MONTEREY

After Ojai, we made our way north. We stopped halfway in the small town of Los Alamos (pop. 886), nestled in the Santa Ynez Valley, for a long lunch at Bell’s – a sort of “must visit” amongst my friends in the food business. It’s owned and operated by Daisy and Greg Ryan, Thomas Keller expats who moved back to the area and opened what is, in my mind, a perfect bistro that resists pastiche while honoring the bistro hits, and breathes life into the form. In the back courtyard we sat on linen-draped tables (an absolute luxury at lunchtime), drank bone-dry Champagne, and couldn’t stop smiling. The meal was great, and after lunch, Greg took us down to some of the sister properties, Bodega and Priedite Barbecue, and we filed the whole thing away as a “need to return to.”

After lunch we headed to Carmel-By-The-Sea, a town whose name tells you a lot about it. We checked into La Playa, newly renovated and perched on the hills overlooking the ocean below. The visit made for some great morning runs along the winding Scenic Road perched above the beaches of Carmel, unfolding and revealing sweeping vistas over a manageable 3.5 miles.

Carmel is a beautiful town, but it skews older. It has a retirement community vibe that isn’t the right fit for our young family, so I can’t see returning, but we made the most of our short time there. 

We drove south on Highway 1, the highway that snakes along the Pacific coast, stopping off at various points to hike the fog-laden lands at the waters’ edge. We didn’t make it as far as Big Sur, but a stay at Deetjun’s is on our lodging bucket list. We visited Clint Eastwood’s Mission Ranch, a long-in-the-tooth property that is just waiting for a bit of reinvention and infusion of new ideas – it was great for a pre-dinner beer and a bit of live piano.

We visited the famous aquarium in Monterey. Our son loved it, of course, but I found it crowded and chaotic – not the revelation I expected it to be. There was a hammerhead shark (a big hit with my son) and a cool display of jellyfish (a big hit with me), but I guess I expected show-stopping installations, more displays, more interaction. I was hoping it would be more educational and less theme park. Along the back of the building, perched on the water, was a shallow tide pool where you stood around and watched tourists squeeze into wetsuits for a little slosh around. 

Afterward we went to Elroy’s Fine Foods, ordering lunch from the deli (a crucial move for a quick/healthy lunch for kids on the road) and bought more sundries – I’ve been researching natural grocers for a new project, and this was one of my favorites of the trip. We ate a great dinner at Stoke’s Adobe (and dessert at Revival Ice Cream) before heading back to Carmel for a fun evening at Bud’s, the in-house tavern and bar at La Playa.

BERKELEY/SAN FRAN

In Berkeley, we stayed at The Faculty Club, a purportedly members-only club smack in the middle of UC Berkeley’s campus. It was built in 1902, designed by storied Bay Area architect Bernard Maybeck. The building was a step back in time, with wood-clad rooms that felt like a summer camp bunkhouse in the Berkshires. It was perfect – less hotel and more like a hostel, with a bar straight out of an Eggleston photograph. (To book, I just called and asked if I could stay there.) They’re raising money to refurbish the building, and I hope they don’t change a thing.

We visited the Trumer Pils brewery for one of America’s best beers, and had an early dinner at Chez Panisse in the cafe upstairs, the slightly more casual little brother to the pre-fixe offering on the ground floor. 

When my 16-year-old flew in for rowing camp at UC Berkeley, we all went for our first In-N-Out experience. I had a Double-Double, Animal-style. I was more impressed with the operation and the cleanliness than the food, which was fine, but couldn’t possibly live up to the breathless hyperbole of so many burger lovers I’ve encountered over the years, who will surely roast me in the comments. The boys, on the other hand: big fans. (Read on for my vote for the best burger in California…)

We couldn’t miss a visit to Zuni Cafe, the SF icon. Caesar salad, shoestring fries, and their roasted chicken with bread salad will always deliver. It is also an entirely reasonable place to have a cold Martini. I know there are many other great options in this city, but Zuni manages to pull me back every time.

INVERNESS

Inverness is one of my favorite places in the world. Situated between Tomales Bay on the East and the sprawling Pacific on the West, it is miraculously uncrowded and – in my opinion – perfect. After an extended visit two years ago, we vowed to return when our son was older and could go on longer hikes. This was home base for a week of hiking, cooking, reading, and being in nature. 

We stayed at an Airbnb around the corner from Manka’s Inverness Lodge (which is sadly, still closed), and cooked nearly all of our meals at home.

Most of our time was spent exploring the Point Reyes National Seashore – with its 80 miles of shoreline and unspoiled nature. Each morning, we stopped at Inverness Park Market (a perfect little market) to order towering sandwiches from the deli counter. We would pack our sandwiches away, pick a hike or an area to explore, and spend the day outside, stopping midway through the journey for a lunch picnic. 

Our favorite hikes of the week were Abbot’s Lagoon and Chimney Rock. On our morning hike out to Chimney Rock, we were entirely alone – not another human as far as the eye could see – a rare experience these days. We had lunch at the very edge of the world on a small bench overlooking the calloused, chalky cliffs and the wide expanse of ocean, where a whale jumped in and out of the water, as if putting on a show just for us. (Fortunately we had purchased Nocs a few days before – a must have.)

We had one dinner out at Saltwater, as well as several afternoon jaunts to Marshall, on the other side of Tomales Bay, for a visit to The Marshall Store. The raw oysters, plucked just yards away, are pristine, and the Oysters Rockefeller are the best I’ve ever had. It’s one of my favorite restaurants in America.

Other favorite excursions included the Bear Valley trailhead (easy hiking for kids), Samuel Taylor State Park (for a dose of redwoods without the crowds), Kehoe Beach, Limantour Beach, and Tule Elk Reserve. Driving in the area is majestic enough, and the scenery from the trails in the area is otherworldly.

We didn’t do much shopping, but Point Reyes is a great stop for Point Reyes Books, Brickmaiden Breads, Visions, and the Monk Estate jewelry collection inside Blunk Space, where we eyed some pieces but resisted. For deeper grocery needs, we love Palace Market – bonus points for their Buffalo milk soft serve with Extra Virgin olive oil.

SONOMA

We stopped in Sonoma for one night to visit our friends at Scribe Winery – my favorite winery in America. Lunch at the Hacienda, getting loose on their vino, is one of the better afternoons that exists in this world, and we were fortunate enough to spend the night on the special property. You’ve got to be a member of their SVS program to visit, which I highly recommend.

TAHOE

We spent two nights relaxing in Tahoe with our friends from Scribe. On the way in, we stopped at one of several farm markets along the highway. This one, Pedrick Produce, had great homemade tamales that fortified our family for the three-hour drive.

In Tahoe, the first order of business was a swim in the cool, pristine lake. Kids and adults alike – everybody in! A swim in Lake Tahoe is not quite a cold plunge, but it’s a fortifying experience. I look forward to the day I get to do it again.

Our meals were eaten at home (with shopping at New Moon Natural Foods), but the dads did manage a Margarita excursion at Shadyside Lounge on the first night. Any place that offers a Tommy’s Margarita is immediately a winner in my book, and Shadyside’s was executed perfectly.

GUERNEVILLE

For our journey from Tahoe to Guerneville, we decided to take the long way, which avoided major highways and favored the much prettier backroads, up and down mountains on intestinal roads with tight shoulders, and through an entire universe of microclimates. At one point it looked less like Earth and more like Narnia.

In Guerneville, we stayed at Dawn Ranch. It’s a beautiful property on the Russian River. For the hotel-watchers out there, I would say there is a big disconnect between how Dawn Ranch markets themselves (like a luxury resort) and what the experience really is (like camp). We spent a great afternoon relaxing by the river, and took a dip in the pool each evening. The cabins dotted around the property are charming in scale, and have been updated by Post Company – despite the touches, it felt like something was missing from the overall experience. 

If I returned to the area, I would be much more inclined to stay at River Electric. We spent an entire day at the “Swim Club and Camp Hotel,” and it was one of the highlights of our entire trip. It opened in May, and was a great experience for all ages. The swim club, which sells day passes, includes an expansive pool, three feet in depth, that was a big hit with families. There’s also an adults-only pool, an on-site open-air bar and restaurant with great food, and the adjacent campground, which was the ideal glamping experience for this low-key area. We booked a cabana and spent eight hours on the property. The music was great (here’s the playlist!) and the staff was on point. The experience was from the same team behind Shelter Co.; they also own the outdoor gear brand The Get Out, which was sold in the well edited gift shop.

During our short stay, we ate dinner at Boon Food & Drink in Guerneville and Sonoma Pizza Co. in nearby Forestville.

PHILO

For the last leg of our trip, we headed further North into the small town of Philo, where we spent three nights at The Apple Farm, which offers stays on their idyllic property in a small grouping of cottages. The farm was founded by Sally Schmitt, the original owner of The French Laundry, and it is still operated by her daughter. Staying on the beautiful grounds among the apple orchard was a highlight of our trip – it offered a serenity that is becoming harder to find. Each stay includes a fresh breakfast each morning, served in an open-air potting shed and the surrounding gardens; our son loved walking the ground each day to visit the chickens, pigs, goats, and the farm dog, Oso. We loved starting the day with coffee on our porch, and ending the day with a walk through the gardens.

The Navarro River borders one edge of the farm and is easily accessible from the property. We spent our first evening wading in the river, searching for treasures, skipping stones, and identifying my sons’ bug discoveries with Seek, which became a favorite app of our trip – “Can we Seek it?” was a common refrain.

Adjacent to the farm is Hendy Woods State Park, with more river access and a charming campground. We spent a day exploring Hendy Grove, a forest of towering Redwood trees. I much prefer it to the busier Muir Woods, which gets all the attention and therefore, offers none of the serenity you’re seeking with a visit to these majestic trees.

Gowan’s Oak Tree is a must – a picturesque, family-run farmstand stop for fresh fruit, walnuts, and their cooling Apple Slush, a frozen drink made from freshly pressed apples grown on their farm.

Philo is a small town (pop. 386), so there is not much to do beyond relaxing and being in nature – which was enough for us! But the good news is that it’s ALSO home to the soon-to-be iconic Jumbo’s Win Win, perhaps my most exciting dining discovery of the year. Jumbo’s was opened in 2024 by Scott Baird, co-founder of the award-winning SF cocktail bar, Trick Dog. Scott decamped to the area with his family and opened a roadside burger stand, which announces itself about 20 miles outside of town with petite, hand-painted “billboards” staked in the ground of area farms. From my perspective, this must surely be one of the better burgers in California (In-N-Out, who?) and perhaps the nation. He offers two smash burger variations, a delightful crispy fish sandwich, and an equally stunning crispy chicken sandwich. His hand-cut fries are the best I’ve had in America, owing a clear debt to Heston Blumenthal’s triple-cooked chips from the Fat Duck. As if that weren’t enough, he has a deep selection of Mexican food specials each day, a chopped salad to end all chopped salads, and Straus Creamery soft-serve that can be enjoyed in a classic cone or can be dressed up in a variety of styles; my favorite was “The Greek” with raw honey, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and ground fennel. They had live music during two of our visits, and it felt like the entirety of Philo, young and old, came out for the fun. To top it all off, every other person was drinking a cold can of Donna’s Pickle Beer, Scott’s “side hustle,” which I wanted to hate – but I LOVED. So much, in fact, that I immediately emailed my team back home in Charleston to bring it into my restaurants. 

SAN FRANCISCO

A common refrain among many people I know is that San Francisco has no great hotels. I’ve tried many, and I’m inclined to agree. My favorite (although I’d like to try Hotel Drisco next time) is Inn at the Presidio. I love the grounds (for Star Wars nerds, also the home of Lucasfilm), the simplicity of the rooms, and the peacefulness of the Presidio, which is still right next to the action but feels remote. I like that there is also a system of hikes just outside the back door, for a dose of nature and fresh air. 

On our last night, we ate at The Anchovy Bar, the petite wine bar/restaurant from the crew behind State Bird Provisions and The Progress. Great wine list, and artful, precise cooking that doesn’t fall short of delivering deliciousness. The local anchovy and tomato toast was among my top bites of the year.
On the way to the airport on our last morning, we squeezed in a visit to Bi-Rite, the San Fran grocery icon. I’d kill to have a market like this back in Charleston, and I love walking every aisle of the petite shop to note what they’re stocking. We got some sandwiches for the plane, and some nectarines and pluots for a last gasp of California sunshine when we were somewhere over Oklahoma, Charleston-bound.

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There are moments that leave a luminous fingerprint on the soul. Not because of what we achieve, but because of how fully we show up. The hush of early morning mist over still water. The snap of a fly line unfurling into sunlight. The laughter of women, waist-deep in a river, boots braced in the current, hearts lifted by sky, fish, and friendship. That’s the kind of wonder I keep finding in fly fishing. Especially in the wild, women-owned sanctuaries of The Fish Ranch in Baja and The Lodge at 58 North in King Salmon, Alaska.

Fly fishing, for me, is less about catching and more about the rhythm. A moving meditation. Intentional, joyful. The first time I stepped into a river with a rod in hand was ten years ago on Oregon’s North Coast. I felt something shift. The river invited a kind of quiet listening. The scent of trees, the sound of water, the way light moves across the surface. And lately, sharing that space with other women, some new to it, some total pros, has added a richness I didn’t know I needed.

The Fish Ranch, Baja: Saltwater Solace and Sisterhood

Baja is bold: sun-scorched desert meets wildly blue ocean. We went for roosterfish, dorado, toro. And wow, did Baja deliver.

We landed at The Fish Ranch just south of La Ventana, travel-dusty and wide-eyed. Mary Grigsby – founder, fisherman, and full-time Baja badass – greeted us with rods in hand and a huge grin. The place is rustic in the best way. Cacti glowing in the golden light, open-air everything. Salt air in your lungs. Mary built this during the pandemic and now it’s home to retreats, mentorship, laughter, and some of the best fishing I’ve ever experienced.

I joined a Women’s Week with my friend Wendy and her three fabulous daughters, a Mother’s Day trip we’ll never forget. We rose before sunrise, casting into morning pink. We caught massive dorado. Painted them (yes, painted them). Laughed ourselves to sleep. Mary believes this place belongs to every woman brave enough to cast a line. And she’s right. Check out the next Women’s Week in Sept 2025.

Roosterfish look like something out of a dream –  striped, silver, with that dramatic dorsal fin waving like a banner. They hit like lightning. You feel it in your shoulders, your knees. I fished with an 11-weight rod and 12-weight line, just to give myself a fighting chance in the wind. When they strike, it’s chaos and magic. You’re in it. Completely.

One morning, I landed a big rooster. Grinning ear to ear under my “Que Bonito” cap – that felt right. The photo says it all: pure, unfiltered joy. Another day, I fought a jack crevalle that had me into my backing three times. At one point I was so hot, so tired, and so deliriously happy I just started laughing. Sometimes it’s not about the fish. It’s about the effort. The splash of luck. And having friends nearby to pour cold water over your head.

We learned so much that week: how to cast a heavy rod on a bucking, jumping boat; how to read the signs of whales offshore (the “humpback blue glow” refers to the phenomenon where sunlight reflecting off a humpback whale’s white pectoral fins or belly, when swimming near the surface, can create a brilliant blue or almost neon-like effect in the water. This is particularly noticeable in clear water and sunny conditions.); how to grieve the loss of local coral reefs and still show up with hope.

At Rancho Cacachilas, we saw what real sustainability looks like: solar power, regenerative farming. Pizza by the fire with ingredients grown right there on the land. It’s a reminder that care and curiosity make things thrive.

Oh and Pólvora, my best meal of 2025. Each plate was handmade by the owner from Baja clay, still warm from the earth. The space? Part wild garden, part art gallery, all heart. Get the churros. Sit at the bar. Just trust me.

The Lodge at 58 North: Northern Light, Deep Stillness

Some places reset your inner compass. The Lodge at 58 North does just that. Located in the remote wilds of King Salmon, Alaska, it’s where silence hums with life. Bald eagles. Bears. Light that never fully disappears in summer. I’ve visited in October and in June, and both were unforgettable.

Kate and Justin Crump, the owners, have created something special here. A blend of Danish design and Alaskan soul. Clean lines, big windows, warm wood everywhere. Their floatplane sits right at the dock, ready to take you to some of the best fishing spots I’ve ever seen. The guides are not only wildly skilled, they’re deeply kind. The food? Oh, just a Michelin-starred chef making art out of local ingredients. No big deal.

One afternoon, Wendy, my fishing adventure pal, hooked a huge salmon. She held her own like a total pro. We all whooped and cheered when it came to net. High fives, big grins, a little dance.

Fishing here means layers: waders, raincoat, fingerless gloves. A beanie pulled over a brimmed hat to block the sun. Always a thermos of tea. In Katmai National Park, you might find yourself casting next to a bear. They fish like they’ve been doing it forever. Because they have. It’s intense. And somehow totally peaceful.

One hike took us to a quiet bend in the river. Shallow water, loaded with huge rainbow trout. Basically a fish party in every pool. We caught so many, we stopped counting. And yeah, it took a splash of luck and skill to land a fly under the overhanging branches without scaring them off. But mostly it was our excitement doing the heavy lifting. Each fish felt like a surprise. Bigger than the last. We netted them gently, kept them wet, said thank you, and let them go.

That night back at the lodge, when someone asked, “How many did you catch?” We just smiled and said, “Lost count.” Because we don’t fish for numbers. We fish for the places it brings us.

The Lodge at 58 North is more than a lodge – it’s a doorway. A place where your phone loses signal, but your heart picks up something better. Connection. Where you strip down and plunge into a glacial river just to remember how alive you are. Cold hands. Sore arms. Salt in your hair. Joy in your bones.

And yes, I’ll be hosting a trip there in June 2026. You don’t have to know how to fish. Just bring your curiosity and a sense of humor. We’ll cast, cook, cold plunge, and learn. 

In both Baja and in Alaska, I’ve learned that water isn’t just scenery – it’s witness. It holds our joy and stories and growth. It reflects us back, not filtered or edited, but real.

When women gather in these places, something shifts. It’s not about competing or proving. It’s about belonging. To the water, to each other, to the rhythm of trying and learning and laughing.

We learn how to tie better knots. But also how to be more patient. More present. More ourselves. And those lessons travel with us, long after the waders are off and the rods are packed away.

The post On Retreat: Women’s Fly Fishing in Baja and Alaska appeared first on Yolo Journal.

We talk a lot about souvenirs here—the things we love to bring back from a place—but there’s also something to be said for what we bring with us when we travel—talismans, good luck charms… whatever you want to call them. Whether it’s an evil eye, a St. Christopher medal, or a corno, it’s something that has significance to you and keeps you grounded and connected, wherever you are. I wear only two—the thumbprint of my daughter, which my husband gave me when she was little, and an En Route charm that my friend Celine Yousefzadeh gave me, which couldn’t be a more fitting message. My daughter wears about 15 of them—if you’re a charm person, you know you can’t just take them off. Whether it’s a pendant picked up at a French antiques stall or a shell that reminds you of home, these small keepsakes are the perfect souvenir: personal, functional, and full of feeling. We love them especially in summer, when they aren’t covered up, and find them to be a great conversation starter. Below are some of our favorites. 

Beck Jewels makes pendants that are literally a piece of the place you can take with you. The designer Rebecca Zeijdel-Paz collects rocks everywhere from Montauk to her home of Curaçao—she turned these pebbles into pieces that look like precious stones.

Marlo Laz’s En Route charm is so elegant and doesn’t scream travel talisman, and these are literal good luck charms.

The Il Sole pendant from Jennifer Alfano is inspired by an Alexander Girard Sun relief in Santa Fe that she has fond memories of, and it pairs well with the vintage Sardinian coral branches she just launched this week.

This gold-plated flipper charm from OOOF screams summer vacation. 

“Charm necklaces are like little bits of meaning locked around my neck—they tend to stay on. I thoughtfully layer them, each one says something, and the stack is often a high-impact statement. I definitely have a thing with heart pendants—there’s something timeless and a little tender about wearing your sentiment where everyone can see it.” —Marlien Rentmeester, style editor, founder of the Le Catch website and her Substack of the same name  

Melissa Easton makes a tiny beautiful Swiss shield charm that transports us straight to the Alps.

Pack this or this evil eye for some good travel juju. 

Malachite is a traveler’s stone that’s meant to bring luck on trips—this one from Van Cleef in their clover shape would be extra good luck, or for the nautically inclined, this mariner link charm in malachite is really beautiful too. 

Some say it’s bad luck to buy a corno for yourself, but it makes such a great gift, and maybe the recipient will reciprocate.  

“I used to always travel with a St. Christopher charm (the patron saint of travelers!), and though I don’t carry it with me anymore, I realized my Dragon Diffusion bag has one stitched into the leather. So I guess he’s still been looking out for me!” —Carly Shea

If you want to go the initials route, these from Roxanne Assoulin or these from Hart are so playful (and well-priced), these from Adina Reyter are impossibly chic, and Sarah Hendler’s disk charms can be engraved with initials, too.

This is called the “aperitivo pendant”—we can totally see it paired with a caftan and Negroni by the sea at golden hour.

You know that we love postcards, and this sweet charm is no exception. 

“While pictures may record the details of a trip, travel charms offer something more personal, a wearable memory of cherished experiences from around the world. I started collecting charms to add to a bracelet as a child, that I knew I would give to my daughter Ella one day. One of my first charms was from Paris, I bought a key with a heart on it to remind me of the Love Lock Bridge, similar to this charm from Adina Reyter.” —Larissa Mills, content creator

A Passport that will never expire!

The chicest olive branch you could possibly extend. 

“Around 15 years ago, I splurged on a gold charm at Calypso—a small disc stamped with a spiral of tiny symbols that looked like they held some ancient cosmic code. It turned out to be a replica of the Phaistos Disc, discovered at the Minoan palace of Phaistos in southern Crete and dating to around 1700 BC. Its meaning remains a mystery to archaeologists, which only adds to its allure. Mine fell off years ago, but two summers back I found another in a little shop in Hydra. It’s become a personal talisman—I never travel without it—and as someone who once spent hours poring over ancient texts (ie, minored in dead languages!), I love the idea of this miniature Rosetta stone, quietly guarding its secrets and waiting to be understood. Here and here are similar versions.” —Alex Postman, Yolo Deputy Editor

This black & white cookie or this coffee cup makes a very portable souvenir from NYC. 

“Charms are my thing as I road trip around, gathering and curating vintage collections for shops and pop-ups. I try not to grow attached to many, as it is a joy to see a charm regain its place of pride on someone’s charm bracelet or necklace. The charm I have held onto for many years, and hope to admire for years to come, is a simple metal heart stamped ‘MARIE’ and strung on a red thread necklace. I discovered her on a first visit to Paris at the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves. It was the best souvenir I could imagine despite her wear, as it appears she has lived a few lives before turning up before me inside the cardboard box lid of a French antiques dealer. I will forever be smitten with engraved charms, contemplating their origins, their meaning, how they were once a celebrated memory. Spy your initials or meaningful date/sentiment at a market or antiques shop? Grab it or you will forever dream about the piece that got away.” —Marie Moss, author and vintage curator

The post The Souvenir: Charm Necklaces appeared first on Yolo Journal.

Marta de la Rica describes herself as “a New Yorker by birth, Spanish at heart, and Biarrot by adoption. The first two were given to me, the last one was chosen.” Known for crafting soulful, artful interiors filled with collected objects and playful details, the Madrid-based designer considers Biarritz—the Basque Coast town where she has spent summers since childhood—her most enduring source of inspiration. You can feel it juicing her latest project, a Cristine Bedfor hotel in Málaga, where striped beach-cabana fabrics and hand-painted tiles nod to coastal nostalgia, and vintage finds conjure the charm of her favorite brocantes.

Her new book, Biarritz: A Vocabulary of Colour, is a love letter to the city. Through photographs both atmospheric and intimate—wild horses grazing in the Pyrenees, sausages hanging in a shop, wetsuits drying in the sun—she captures the rhythms and rituals of daily life in this corner of the Basque Coast. We asked Marta to share her favorite spots, memories, and objects from her happy place.

When/why did you first start going to Biarritz? Has it changed at all in the years since?

I’ve been going to Biarritz basically all my life. I don’t think it has changed much—that’s part of its magic. Like everywhere in July and August it’s incredibly busy, probably more so than years ago, but that’s when you enjoy staying at home, spending time with family, and planning carefully when you go out. What has changed is the people around me—that’s life. I remember my childhood there with my grandparents, who are no longer with us, but now my parents are there as grandparents to my daughters, who didn’t exist back then… It’s the circle of life, and I feel so fortunate that this circle keeps turning in the same place.

How does the city uniquely blend Spanish and French cultures?

There’s a very French side to Biarritz, which feels quite different from Spain, but it’s true that the Basque heritage is shared with the Spanish Basque Country. There’s a strong local pride in belonging to this region. You can see the connection in many aspects: the architecture, the gastronomy, the local festivals (in Bayonne, for example, people dress just like in Pamplona during San Fermín), and in the love and respect for the sea and fishing… These are beautiful cultural ties that both sides of the border have in common.

Your book is called A Vocabulary of Colour. What are the colors of Biarritz—how would you describe the palette?

When I close my eyes and think of Biarritz in terms of color, the sea immediately comes tomind—especially the view from above La Côte des Basques. It’s an explosion of blues,greens, and greys that I’ve never seen anywhere else. At sunrise, it’s tinted with mauves and pinks, and at sunset, it turns incredible shades of orange.

You describe Biarritz as being “about pizzerias and wetsuits.” Can you elaborate on that vibe?

What makes Biarritz special is the mix of its architecture, which recalls the glamour ofanother era, with a very laid-back, relaxed vibe. It’s the kind of place where people go not tobe seen—because no one really cares about that. You can walk barefoot from the beach and stop for a crepe on your way home.

What foods are emblematic of Biarritz, and where are your favorite places to eat them?

In the city, I love Cheri Bibi, located in a very cozy neighborhood of small houses nestled side by side, called Bibi Beaurivage. They have a small menu with simple yet surprisingly flavorful dishes, and the atmosphere is incredibly relaxed.Also right in the city center, on Rue Gambetta (which is now pedestrian-only), I love Le Bistrot du Haou. It serves simple yet exquisite French food—perfect for a weekday meal. L’Auberge d’Achtal in Arcangues is a classic spot we’ve been going to all our lives—especially for summer dinners under the plane trees, while the kids run around the large fronton until the food arrives. The duck, the fries, and the mushroom omelettes are musts. I personally love the fine herb omelette (my family always teased me for being the boring one… but I’ve always loved it). Of course, Gaztelur, our family adventure that we opened ten years ago—a restaurant and antiques boutique in Arcangues—is also a must. The place is an experience in itself, nestled in Arcangues, surrounded by forest and facing a large meadow. David and Borja, who lead the kitchen, make the best grilled fish and the best rice dishes in the area, among many other things.

You mention browsing flea markets and antiques shops—given your profession, you must have an especially great list! Would you share a few?

Like true French locals, brocantes and vide-greniers are a regular part of life here. Every weekend, there’s one in a nearby village—Ahetze, Arcangues, Guéthary… Sometimes we venture a bit further, even as far as Bordeaux, where there are two great fairs each year, in autumn and spring, that are really worth visiting. Beyond the brocantes, many afternoons we walk from home to the village for our usual visit to our antique dealer friends Pierre Julien and Isabelle Marc to see what they’ve recently found. More often than not, we leave with something tucked under our arm—and always with a fascinating story about a piece of furniture or a special object.

Where do you recommend that friends stay? Are there a couple of hotels that best capture the spirit of the place?

I love having my friends stay at our house, but when I recommend hotels, I usually tell them to go to Hotel Silhouette—it’s right by the market, in the heart of Biarritz, and the area is lively all year round, both during the day and at night, with lots of locals. Hotel de la Plage is also nearby, right on the seafront. It has a super relaxed vibe and you can take a morning swim at La Petite Plage with hardly anyone around. You’ll only run into the “Ours Blancs,” a group of swimmers—some young, some not so young (the oldest are over 80!)—who swim there every day of the year. Thanks to them, if I’m in Biarritz on December 31, I always go for a swim!

You have lots of photographs of children—I assume they are yours? What are some favorite activities for kids?

Yes! They’re my daughters, but there are also a few nieces. What I love about Biarritz is how much time you spend together as a family. We play paddle ball on the beach, catch waves with bodyboards, and go crab fishing. There’s a plan we’ve done for generations when it rains (because you should know—it does rain sometimes!) which is to visit the Aquarium, or the Musée de la Mer as it’s called there. We’ve spent hours watching fish, jellyfish, and seals—I loved it as a child, and my daughters love it now. There’s also a zipline park in Chiberta, which is a big hit.

What beaches would you recommend for swimming vs. surfing, and is there a place you’d recommend at each—favorite restaurant, beach club, etc.?

Biarritz is actually where surfing first started in Europe, when the Americans came to film a movie and brought a surfboard with them. Since then, thousands of surfers have come here throughout the year. For surfing, it depends on your level. For advanced surfers, there’s a legendary spot in Guéthary called Parlementia. For beginners, Côte des Basques is perfect. For swimming, I recommend La Petite Plage, right in the center of Biarritz, past the Atalaya—it’s a little cove nestled between rocks that opens onto a very small beach where you can usually swim, as the sea tends to be much calmer there. I also love the endless beaches of Anglet—La Madrague, Les Corsaires, L’Océan… They’re just past the Biarritz lighthouse and are more like the long, wide beaches of Les Landes. They remind me of my childhood, because we used to meet my grandparents there every morning. Even though the lifeguards are really well-trained, you still need to respect the sea in Biarritz—it can surprise you if you’re not careful. There’s a beach bar I love on La Plage de l’Océan called Oceanoa—it’s the perfect spot to grab something to eat with your feet in the sand.

What is the origin of the wild horses you photographed in your book? Is there a place to see these?

The Potoks are a breed of small wild horses that date back to the Paleolithic era and can still be found grazing in the Pyrenees. There’s a very well-known and beautiful hike from Ascain to the peak of La Rhune. It’s about 10 km with an 800 m elevation gain, and you’re almost guaranteed to spot Potoks along the way.

What are some other sights that a visitor should be sure to see while here?

Beyond Biarritz, there are many nearby villages that are worth visiting. Heading toward Spain along the Corniche Road, you’ll find Bidart, Guéthary, and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Inland, you shouldn’t miss Ahetze (I actually got married there), Arbonne, Arcangues, and a bit further, Sare. Espelette is another beautiful village, famous for the chili pepper that carries its name.

You photograph a number of objects in the book. What is the significance of these and how are they emblematic of the place you love?

I wanted to dedicate part of the book to objects themselves—that’s the idea behind the “Vocabulary of Objects” section in the middle. Objects are a fundamental part of my work. Beyond their intrinsic beauty, they tell stories and bring soul to interiors. The objects in the book are chosen for the emotion they evoke. I love them for their colors, shapes, or materials, but also for what they represent. For the story they carried before reaching me, and for the story they now have in my life. For example, the ceramic Stilton cheese cover that has always sat on our breakfast counter at home, or the large Baccarat perfume bottle on the cover, which I bought from an antiques dealer friend whom I greatly admire.

One theme you explore is “the beauty of small things.” Hot takes: what are some small things that stand out for you?

Yes, Biarritz has taught me to truly enjoy the small things:

• Going to the market and choosing the perfect cantaloupe for breakfast

• The feeling of putting on a sweater on a summer evening

• Setting a beautiful table

• Taking the time to enjoy breakfast

• Watching a cloudless sunset eating an ice cream from Monsieur Lopez

• Or witnessing an enormous thunderstorm that feels like the world is about to end

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January 7^th, 2025. If I had known how the day would end, I would have dressed better as I headed out the door for my morning coffee with a friend in Venice Beach.  

By nightfall, my husband, Iain Paterson, and I had lost everything.  Fires swept through the entire community of Pacific Palisades with terrifying speed, consuming 32 years of a carefully curated life in a matter of hours.  We got out with only our passports and the clothes on our backs. 

We were, of course, not alone—nearly 6,000 homes were destroyed in those harrowing few days. Time slipped sideways. A friend found us a short-term furnished rental and we began the numbing motions of insurance claims. We have all watched natural disasters on the news and thought, “Oh, those poor people.” Now we were those people. Frankly, it was a clarifying, if bitter lesson. We Are Always All People.

As we regained some of our balance, we turned to the things that we knew we needed. The 4 F’s you could say: Family, Friends, Familiarity—and France. My husband’s family has deep roots in Monaco, and over the years we have travelled extensively throughout the country. We set off for nearly the entire month of May.

Familiarity and Family: Paris and Monaco

From LA, we flew to Paris. This began the familiar. I started traveling to Paris decades ago, when I worked in fashion, and my husband’s parents had lived in the city at one time. So when we met, it was only natural that travel to Paris would become something we would do together. On this trip, we wandered our favorite areas of St Germain and Le Marais, ate in our favorite restaurants—including Le Bon Georges, which we never skip—and saw dear friends at Supersonic Medieval, a stunning exhibition of London-based artist Marianna Kennedy’s works at Christie’s Paris. At the Foundation Louis Vuitton, the David Hockney exhibition was pure joy, despite the crowds. His unflinching use of color and exploration of new mediums always inspire. But this time, they struck a deeper chord, with the memory of seeing our property and entire community, once awash in Hockney-esque hues, reduced to a palette of ash still vivid in our minds. The early pool paintings, illustrating the sharp, flat California light and cerulean blues, were poignant reminders of our changed circumstances.

From Paris, we flew south to Monaco. This would be family time. Lunches out at our regular haunts—an easy seaside meal in Villefranche-sur Mer at La Mère Germaine. Early AM walks along a weaving coastal path from Fontvieille to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and is known almost exclusively to locals. Aperitifs on the terrace as we watched the boats come and go. Maybe a trip into the center for a mille-feuille at Café de Paris. These small rituals pulled us back into ourselves. Perhaps not forgetting what we had been through, but pushing those thoughts to the back shelf of our hearts and minds. Distraction and familiarity are wonderful balms. The body softens.

Slow Explorations From Bordeaux to Martillac

In the past, we’d rented houses in the South of France. This time we wanted to explore Bordeaux. We picked up a rental car and headed to Saint Émilion. Friends who own Blankiet Estates in Napa had recommended Logis de la Cadène—the oldest restaurant in the village, founded in 1848. The adjoining small hotel had recently been renovated, each room named for a local vintage.

Our room on the top floor was charming, and nicely appointed with a lovely bathtub, but it was tiny—Lilliputian came to mind. The hotel isn’t for everyone: it sits on a steep cobbled street that requires sure footing (or perhaps a sherpa). But the restaurant more than redeemed the climb. Dinner was extraordinary, free of the pretension that often accompanies Michelin-starred meals. We are not fans of tasting menus, but chef Thibaut Gamba and his team delivered a parade of thoughtful, complex dishes that let the freshest of ingredients shine without theatrics—like a raw local mushroom dish on a purée of lightly cooked ones that deserved its own star. We went into the kitchen afterward to thank the team and were warmly greeted by the chef, who showed us around.

The next morning we headed further south to the Martillac region, 20 minutes south of Bordeaux. At this point, 10 days into our travels, we generally crave being in a home with a garden and having quiet evenings over simple, light meals. Our rental house, found on Airbnb, was modern and perfect. A lovely garden overlooking fields, a well-equipped kitchen. We took day trips into the city, which was stunning, but our souls required the spring greens of the countryside, so lots of off-roading was in order.  

We explored the coastal region and spent a beautiful day in Arcachon, which has the most amazing beaches ever. It was market day, where tables groaned with melons, charcuterie and seasonal white asparagus. Another day, we headed further south to explore the small town of Cadillac-sur Garonne—perhaps best known for the Chateau Ducal de Cadillac built in the 17th century, which housed female prisoners from 1820 to 1952. From Cadillac, we continued a bit further south to the village of Saint-Macaire, where we found a lovely tiny restaurant, Le Caboulot. The chef makes their own pastry, which resulted in a memorable asparagus quiche. Later, we wandered the village and sat in silence before Romanesque frescoes from the 14^th century in the Église de Saint Sauveur et Saint Martin. I frequently meditate in churches when we travel, as they are the perfect places to sit in and reflect on what is real for oneself in that present moment. What was real for me that day was sadness; however, this reality was starting to soften now and then, replaced in equal measure with wonder and gratitude.

Our days took on the familiar rhythm that we always find when traveling. Exploring villages and small towns, stopping at flea markets, always at any church or at one of the French supermarkets, Carrefour or LeClerc, where one marvels at the wine prices and the range of condiments. We ate lunch out on most days—sometimes we found a good spot in a village and sometimes it was just a jambon fromage from the local boulangerie. Each day, we returned to the garden to have a cocktail—a Negroni for Iain and something with mezcal for me—as we planned the next day.

Our rental was a short stroll from the incredible Les Sources de Caudalie Spa and Hotel. This establishment is on the grounds of the Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte vineyard. Sculptures dot the grounds, and a sense of playfulness pervades the property—in its architecture (the entrance to a room on the pond was a gypsy caravan!), the directional signs, and even the colorful uniforms of the reception team. Sadly, we visited between mealtimes so we did not get to experience either of their two restaurants, but we sat for a lovely coffee on the terrace and vowed to stay there on our next trip.

A Path Forward in Nouvelle Aquitaine

After 12 days in Martillac, we made our way further north into Nouvelle Aquitaine, as I had located what appeared to be the perfect gite on the Chateau Puynard vineyard in Berson. Our next French home, playfully called Petite Puy, was a jewel of a guest house that had been thoughtfully renovated with a decorator’s eye. A round soaking tub and a beautiful bottle of the Chateau’s wine welcomed us. A narrow plunge pool sparkled outside. Sadly, the weather turned chilly with a bit of rain for our brief stay, but we fell in love with the area of rolling hills and its proximity to the coast.

We explored the nearby town of Blaye, on the southern tip of the Gironde estuary and its stunning 12^th century citadelle, part of a trio of fortifications that includes Fort Medoc and Forte Pate. After exploring the vast grounds, we lunched at La Gavroche, a bistro across the street with perfect daily specials and wine selection.

One morning, we tracked down the bakery in Bourg, Boulangerie Grandjean, that won the Best Brioche in Gironde in 2022. While the bakery was closed, it led us to Jeroboam 120, a lovely restaurant overlooking the Gironde. I don’t remember the full meal, but it surely started with white asparagus.

This was how we found a path forward. Time spent exploring country roads, stopping for coffee or snacks, inspecting shops, sitting in churches to meditate, allowed our minds to settle.  We know how to travel. What we did not know was where to start in the process of creating a new home. With the walls and roof obviously… but how ?

We did not buy a single item on our travels. You cannot just replace the carefully selected art, the books, and all the beautiful things that make a home unique. Over the past 17-plus years, we have often spent 8 months or longer on location, while Iain produced TV drama series—Bogota, Colombia to Santa Fe, NYC, Atlanta…. Many treasures would return home with us—artwork, glass or China, antique Christmas ornaments, and always books. I do not feel we are defined by our home so much as we are supported by it, both physically and mentally. So there was always a bit of longing each time we were in a lovely surrounding and thinking, “That would be lovely to put in the study.”

A Restorative Farm in Burgundy

From Berson, we started a slow back-road journey north through the Burgundy region, towards our final destination of Zurich, to reconnect with dear friends. In choosing our routes we tried to stay off the main highways, and I researched Relais & Châteaux hotels that matched our direction. Family-run establishments have never disappointed us in the past.  

We had a magnificent day driving through the Burgundy countryside, a brief visit to Beaune for a coffee and of course a visit to the Cathedral before arriving at Domaine de Rymska in Saint-Jean de Trezy. A former hunting lodge built in the 1900s, it was lovingly transformed by Eric Feurtet, who also began breeding thoroughbred racehorses while renovating the property.  He turned the 200 acres into a working farm, a superb hotel, spa and restaurant. We were welcomed by four new foals racing beside their mothers in a lower paddock and ducks waddling freely from one pond to another. The vast grounds hold fishing ponds, prize-winning Wagyu beef, sheep, geese, quail, pigs and chickens, all surrounded by tranquil meandering farm roads to hike at any hour. The setting was truly restorative. The staff were gracious, the food beautifully prepared with a varied seasonal menu, and we loved our morning walks to inspect newborns and the trophy wall in the immaculate barns.

A Delightful Discovery in the Jura

We pressed north, again following off roads, stopping for coffee and snacks and to explore the Royal Salt Works at Arc-et-Senans. An impressive complex commissioned by Louis XVI and designed by Claude-Nicholas Ledoux, the wood from the surrounding forests provided the power to boil the brine to make this precious commodity. Thanks to our GPS, we found ourselves on a narrow active logging road with huge downed trees stacked up along the edges. It wove for miles in and around canals towards our next stop, Chateau de Germigney in the Jura region.

Located in Port-Lesney between Lons-le-Saunier and Besançon, this was perhaps our favorite hotel stay of our entire trip. A former 18^th century hunting lodge for the Marquis de Germigney, it consists of 28 rooms and suites, extensive grounds, a lovely pool and superb Caudalie spa. The interiors were playful, with a surprising with a mix of open, modern, and new, alongside classic and cozy. We both had magnificent treatments, a massage for Iain and facial for me. Their restaurant stands on par with Logis de Cadène. I had a morel mushroom dish foraged from the area that I still dream about. The superb sommelier introduced us to stellar wines from the region, specifically a 2022 bottle of white from Frederic Lornet, a producer in the Arbois appellation.

Zurich was just a short drive away and as the traffic picked up, so did our tension. We were not returning home, just back to a temporary rental that we have not attempted to make our own. A sadness descended on both of us. At this point in our lives, our home had been carefully curated. And as we reflected on how the interior and our possessions defined who we were, perhaps there was some realization that the very foundation of that home was more than the physical. The home was filled with conversations, hopes and dreams. We did not lose ourselves; we just lost the foundation of bricks and mortar. Amidst the rumination, we had one more joyous meeting ahead: meeting dear friends at the Kronenhalle Bar for perfect martinis, followed by a classic Italian meal at Ristorante Conti.

Destination Unknown

On the flight back to LA the next morning, we came to some decisions. First, we will try to spend more time each year in France, a place that feels familiar and easeful in a way that LA no longer does. 

On a more personal note, I’ve resolved to wear what I buy. My closet once held fabulous things—archival Margiela and special pieces, some never worn but saved for “good;” a Prada bag bought in Italy last year that still haunts me, unused. No more. I’ll stop reaching for jeans.  And finally, in the fall, we will leave LA for good. Trying to re-create our life in the city we know too well feels like stagnation. The shock of what we lost demanded movement.

There is a teaching in Buddhism: Begin Again. One breath starts as the last one ends. It’s not about forgetting what came before, but honoring it—building from it. So with care and intention, we will begin again. Exactly where, we don’t yet know.

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When people think of the French côtes, it’s often with the assumption that everything within easy reach of the beach is going to be special-occasion expensive. But with three very different coastlines to explore, there are tons of lesser-known, under-the-radar beach towns—and even some gems in the tonier touristed regions—where you can stay somewhere great without spending a fortune. If you’re new to us, “Costa Meno” (a play on “costs less” and an imaginary coastline that is actually affordable) is our guide to hotels (and the occasional house rental) in destinations that tend to be independently owned, inexplicably charming, and under (in this case) 350 euros/night. We’ve already covered Italy, Spain, The Caribbean, Mexico, and the Greek Islands, so France was our natural next stop! Our list begins in the north near the Belgian border, then moves counter-clockwise over to Normandy and Brittany in the northwest, then down to the southwest, before skipping over to the Côte d’Azur…uncovering some amazing finds along the way, from stilted modernist cabins to beachy cottages and toile-filled seaside châteaus. And many of them are even more affordable in September, when it’s still very warm but the crowds are gone. 

NORTH

The “Opal Coast”

Within the Hauts-de-France region, this coastline along the English Channel—stretching from the Belgian border to Picardy—is known for its scattered charming fishing villages, dramatic cliffs and wild capes.

Hôtel de Fiennes in Boulogne-sur-Mer has the sweetest rooms filled with tasteful French antique furniture, in a beautiful building within the town’s historic fort. 

Château de la Marine is a five-minute drive from the seaside town of Wimereux—a grand renovated château with thoughtful rooms.

Hôtel Atlantic is right on the sea in Wimereux with nice, basic rooms for a great price.

L’Accalmie is a simple 4-room chambre d’hôtes in Wimereux with a lovely breakfast room.

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In short… A chic beach hotel that’s a short walk through the pines and dunes to the Atlantic, and to the center of our favorite town on the cape.

The surroundings… Set on the Cap Ferret peninsula—west of Bordeaux and often compared to Montauk or Cape Cod for its laid-back barefoot charm—Hôtel des Dunes is the oldest hotel on the cape and a beloved institution since 1969. In 2022, it was given fresh life by new owners Karine and Jean-Philippe Hecquet, who reopened the 13-room property after a thoughtful renovation. It’s in the southwest part of the cape—close to the lighthouse, a half block to the dunes, a walk or bike ride to some of the best restaurants, and to the ferry that takes you across the bay to Arcachon, if you like. It’s sunny, light-filled, and has such a great vibe! You feel inspired but relaxed. 

The vibe… Karine and Jean-Philippe were very influenced by the surf lodge/beach house/motel culture of Hawaii, the Hamptons and California—they had lived in all of these places, but also had been coming to Cap Ferret for 25 years, so when this property became available, it was a perfect fit. They worked on the project with local architect Delphine Carrère, who also fell in love with this iconic property—you can feel in their collaboration a shared passion, respect, taste and restraint. While it could have gone a bit too retro-motel schtick-y, it leans instead a bit more bohemian minimalism—lots of jute and raffia details, white woven hammocks in the center courtyard, spare use of ‘60s-’70s Vallauris pottery, and chic board games in the indoor dining area. There’s a major emphasis on using everything local and sustainable—Karine worked tirelessly to source everything from the area, down to the sunscreen they sell in their gift shop, SeventyOne Percent, which comes from the Landes, the region just next door. 

The rooms… There are 11 rooms and 2 suites. We stayed in Room 7, which had a really large enclosed terrace with lots of other cushioned seating that Prune loved. There was tea from local purveyor Kodama in the room, and the minibar more niche snacks like cashews and local beer and wine. Bath products from Oceopin (which got its start in Cap Ferret, but is now well-known throughout France) are in large bottles—there’s no single use product. It’s a no-plastic property, so glass bottles of water are provided in the room. It’s also a no TV property, which I love. I’m so over the giant TV in the room—if we want to watch something, don’t we all have devices we can use? 

The wellness… There’s a yoga mat in the room, which we used on our terrace, and also a sauna for two available to guests. They have great bikes from a local maker in Vendée, and they’ll help organize surf lessons or yoga/meditation for you. Once we parked, we never got in our car until we left—we just biked and walked everywhere. And while we didn’t go for a hike, there are great trails in the area!

The food & drink… They serve a lovely breakfast buffet—everything is local, from the smoked fish from down the street to the jams and honey and the breads, charcuterie, and granolas. You can also order eggs if you like. Coffee is from our favorite L’Alchimiste in Bordeaux. They’ll make you a picnic if you ask, and they have a bar at cocktail hour, which is very sweet—serving simple drinks like Lillet, wine and champagne. More complicated drinks are available, too—they found a great maker in Paris who pre-bottles drinks for them, and Matt, the harshest critic, thought the Negroni was excellent.

Is it family friendly? In general I think Cap Ferret is great for families. You can have leisurely lunches on the bay while your children run around in the low tide—it’s so barefoot/lowkey, there are kids everywhere. There were several families staying at the hotel, and they all looked so happy. The suites are perfect if you’re traveling with kids—they can sleep up to five. The children we saw loved the hammocks as well as the living/dining area, where I saw some drawing and game-playing going on. The walk to the beach is not hard for most, but might be challenging for little ones. There is a beach that has easier access via a drive or taking the little train just five minutes away. 

Extra tip goes to… Karine couldn’t have been a better host! She made the best restaurant suggestions and booked them for us. A dream! 

Be sure to… Ride a bike at sunset (It’s about 15 minutes) to Mirador, the just-opened outdoor lounge at the tip of the cape, where you’ll find such a diverse group of people, from little kids to grandparents, and everyone in between, all hanging out together. 

Parting words… We can’t wait to come back! We really fell in love with Cap Ferret on this visit—the proximity to the ocean and being able to ride our bikes everywhere. It was heaven! 

Date of stay… July 16, 2025

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